Jane's aquamarine and diamond ring
Jane came to see me with quite a few pieces of jewellery that she has aquired over the years. She’s very lucky to have some fantastic pieces with decent quality gem stones set into them. It was was clear that her taste has changed over time, as well as her emotional relationship with some of the pieces. There are also only so many rings we can wear for the number of fingers we have: it made so much sense to amalgamate the metal and re-design her old jewellery.
Here are a few of Jane’s rings that we had to ‘play’ with:
Whilst sat in our Design Studio and looking at examples, I noticed Jane was drawn towards some of our simpler, more contemporary pieces with what we call ‘rubover’ settings. Through discussion and trying on samples, we started to build a list of ideas that all followed a similar theme and were starting to look like a really lovely collection.
I developed up a design brief specifically for her aquamarine ring and did a scale drawing so I could layout her diamonds and give both myself and Jane a really good idea of how it was all going to look. I think how a ring feels on a finger is just as important as the asthetics so I also wanted to check to wasn’t going to be ‘too big’ on her finger either.
Here are my design notes:
Jane had enough 18ct yellow gold for us to use for the ring shank and I suggested that we supplied some new platinum to make the head of the ring. Platinum is harder wearing than white gold and I knew her diamonds and the blue of the aquamarine would really pop in a white metal.
We could then proceed to the manufacture stage and our goldsmith Behzad set about melting and refining Jane’s old gold in order to then handmake her ring. I love how brilliantly he has interpreted my design and ensured that every detail is in keeping with the simplicity of what we were after. The detail of the profiling at the shoulders of the shank and how they join onto the head of the ring is spot on.
We’ve worked hard to find and maintain relationships with top setters and this is reflected in how immaculately Jane’s stones are set in her ring too. Her diamonds are ‘grain set’ around her aquamarine which is a really pretty style of setting whilst the setting edge offers some security from knocks too.